Nous avions prévu une conférence de Madame DARMAGNAC sur les richesses architecturales de la Sicile. La COVID nous oblige à l’annuler mais elle sera reprogrammée dès que la situation sanitaire le permettra. A défaut et pour vous faire patienter, j’ai pensé que vous seriez intéressés par quelques repères historiques qui permettent de mieux comprendre pourquoi la Sicile a été le creuset d’influences extraordinairement diverses qui en font une île d’un intérêt culturel tout à fait exceptionnel.
Dans l’admirable livre de Guiseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa « Le Guépard », le prince fait part à Chevalley, l’envoyé de Turin, qui lui demande d’accepter de devenir sénateur du nouveau royaume, de la reflexion suivante : »Nous autres Siciliens, une très longue suite de gouvernants qui n’appartenaient pas à notre religion, qui ne parlaient pas notre langue, nous a habitués à couper les cheveux en quatre. C’était la seule façon d’échapper aux exacteurs byzantins, aux émirs berbères, aux vice-rois espagnols…….Il y a au moins cinq siècles que nous portons sur nos épaules le poids de civilisations magnifiques, toutes venues de l’extérieur… ».
Les premières populations dont les recherches historiques trouvent la trace sont les Sicules, les Sicanes et les Elymes. D’ou venaient-elles ? On en débat encore.
Les phéniciens sont venus par la suite, sans doute avant la fondation même de Carthage(-814 av JC° ) mais les phéniciens qui étaient avant tout des commerçants sont restés sur la côte essentiellement au nord-ouest. C ‘est dans la petite île de Mozia proche de Marsala que l’on trouve les restes les plus visibles de leurs implantations. Au milieu des vignes qui produisent un excellent vin blanc, le Grillo ,sont dispersés des sanctuaires, les restes du port, la nécropole…
Les traces de la présence grecque sont bien entendu beaucoup plus importantes. Les premières implantations autour de 735 av JC se font à Naxos et à Syracuse. En 580 av-JC est fondée Agrigente par des colons de Gela. Les relations entre les cités ne se font pas toujours sur le signe de l’entente cordiale : elles se jalousent, font à l’occasion alliance avec les carthaginois dans leurs guerres intestines. Elles sont rarament démocratiques et confient très vite leur sort à des tyrans. Mais elles prospèrent : la Sicile devient un grenier à blé ce qui perdurera au travers des siècles. Les villes comptent parmi les plus magnifiques du monde grec. Les temples de Sélinonte, d’Agrigente et de Segeste, qui sont mieux conservés que ceux que l’on trouve en Gréce ,font toujours l’admiration pour leur élégance. La ville de Syracuse compte un million d’habitants et sa flotte de guerre est la plus redoutable du monde antique.
Mais une puissance proche, Rome ,manifeste son ambition. Les romains se débarassent des carthaginois à l’occasion des guerres puniques et vassalisent les grecs.La Sicile devient romaine de 227av JC à 468 ap JC. La seule fonction de la Sicile est d’assurer une bonne part des besoins en blé de Rome. Les riches romains s’y font construire des villégiatures confortables. La villa de Piazza Armerina qui se trouve à l’intérieur des terres, avec ses 3500m2 de mosaiques en est le témoignage le plus extraordinaire. Parfois les romains remanient des réalisations grecques comme au théatre de Syracuse.
Après la décadence de l’empire romain, puis un bref intermède vandale, goth et wisigoth, l’empereur Justinien ordonne la conquête de la Sicile en 523. Aux Vé et VIIé siécles, la Sicile byzanthine connait la paix et la prospérité.
Mais les arabes installés en Tunisie jettent leur dévolu sur cette île très proche . La conquête sera lente et difficile : elle durera 138 ans. Ils y resteront deux siècles et demi. Les chrétiens ont le statut de dhimmis, c’est à dire de tributaires ,en fait des personnes qui paient un impôt spécial que ne versent pas les musulmans. Ils doivent s’engager à ne pas construire de nouveaux lieux de culte, ni restaurer ceux qui tombent en ruine, à ne pas accueillir de voyageurs mais à donner le gîte pendant trois jours à tout musulman en faisant la demande, à ne pas espionner les musulmans, à ne pas lire le Coran, à ne pas faire de prosélythisme pour le christianisme, à saluer tout musulman, à ne pas avoir d’arbre, à ne pas monter un cheval ni un âne sellé, à ne pas construire des demeures plus hautes que celles habitées par des musulmans….Comme on le voit, ce statut contrairement à ce que certains historiens ont pu écrire sur’L’Andalousie heureuse pendant la période musulmane », n’avait rien de très bienveillant mais en contrepartie les chrétiens n’étaient pas persécutés. L’influence arabe marquera la Sicile et reste présente dans la multiplicité des dômes, des arabesques des jardins…Palerme à l’époque est la plus belle ville avec Cordoue de la civilisation musulmane occidentale.
Commence ensuite une épopée extraordinaire, celle des normands descendants de Tancrède de Hauteville petit seigneur du Cotentin. Utilisés au départ comme mercenaires, les normands agissent ensuite pour leur propre compte. Ils s’emparent successivement du Bénévent, des Pouilles ,de la Calabre et finalement de la Sicile. Ils conquièrent cette dernière en 30 ans non sans difficultés : Palerme se rend après un siège en 1072. Sous l’action de Roger II qui devient duc des Pouilles, de la Calabre et de la Sicile, le sud de l’Italie et la Sicile deviennent un seul royaume . C’est le deuxième âge d’or de l’histoire de la Sicile qui va de la fin du 11ésiècle à la fin du 12é, donc une période assez courte mais qui a laissé de magnifiques monuments. Les témoignages architecturaux sont très nombreux : les cathédrales de Catane, Mazara 
,Cefalu avec leurs mosaîques de tradition byzantine mais avec des influences arabes. Une des plus belles réussites de cette synthèse est la cathédrale de Monréale près de Palerme. Bâtie sur un modèle lombard, elle possède un cloître avec 128 colonnettes d’une grande finesse décorées de motifs inspirés de l’art islamique et 6340 m2 de mosaiques sur fond or d’influence byzantine mais typiques de l’école de Venise.
La fille de Roger II ayant épousé l’empereur Frédéric Barberousse ,leur fils FrédéricII Hohenstaufen reprend le flambeau et règne sur cinq royaumes : Arles et la Bourgogne, la Germanie, l’Italie, la Sicile et Jerusalem . Il est né à Palerme et reste attaché à la Sicile même s’il y réside peu. Il y construit églises, palais,cathédrales et de nombreux châtaux. C’est un prince très cultivé : il parle couramment le grec, le latin et l’arabe et a un gôut prononcé pour la médecine et les mathémathiques.
Après sa mort et diverses péripéties, la Sicile revint au frère de Saint Louis, Charles Ier d’Anjou. Par son autoritarisme il se mit rapidement à dos les siciliens et cela se termina les 30 et 31 mars 1282 par le massacre des Angevins, ce sont les fameuse Vêpres siciliennes. C’est alors l’arrivée de Pierre II d’ Aragon qui succéde aux Angevins. La Sicile sera désormais aragonaise c’est à dire sous domination espagnole pour une longue période. C’est une autonomie sous contrôle sous l’autorité d’un vice-roi ; La Sicile devient la terre du latifundium, c’est à dire celle de la domination du propriétaire absent et des travailleurs endettés, système qui plus tard favorisera le développement de la mafia.
Durant les deux siècles qui suivent et qui courent de 1516 à la paix d’Utrecht ,la Sicile vit au rythme de l’empire espagnol. Elle devient une province lointaine et périphérique ne jouant plus un rôle majeur. Elle demeure néanmoins face à la piraterie barbaresque mais aussi aux avancées turques, la frontière de l’Occident chrétien. Les villes soumises aux éxigences espagnoles se révoltent : Palerme en 1647,Messine en 1672 et 1678. C’est la grande époque de l’art baroque ,un baroque original et très sicilien. Cela débute en 1609 avec la construction des Quatro canti à Palerme, croisement des deux grands axes qui structurent la ville. L’expression la plus emblématique de cet art se trouve à Noto, ville classée au patrimoine mondial de l’Unesco. Détruite par le tremblement de terre de 1693 ,puis reconstruite quelques kilomètres plus loin, dans cette ville tout est baroque, de la disposition en damier de la ville, aux serrures des maisons en passant par les églises, les palais et les balcons en fer forgé.
En 1720 la Sicile devient autrichienne et le restera jusqu’en 1734. Puis elle redevient espagnole avant une brève occupation française sous Murat en 1815. En 1816 elle devient une province du royaume des Deux siciles et l’essentiel de la politique de la sicile se décide à naples.1860 marque le débarquement des Mille de Garibaldi qui miltait pour le rattachement de la Sicile au royaume d’Italie.
Rattachée à l’Italie, la Sicile connaîtra les aléas de la vie politique italienne : le problème du retard économique du sud,Mussolini et lefascisme ,la mafia…. Mais ceci est une autre histoire.
René BARBERYE
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